How to Get the Best Purchase Price on Any Car EVERYTIME– No BS!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is one of the best negotiation strategies to buy a new vehicle every time. Plus you will save yourself the hassle of dealing with a car salesperson face to face. At times the dealer / auto broker will go below invoice as well.
One thing I forgot to mention in this video is that when that same Toyota dealership that originally offered my sister $322 per month and then went down to $268 per month (sorry in the video I said $222 to $168) when i got involved they said they could not honor that price cause my sisters credit score was shot. No problem… I co-signed for her and she left the dealership within an hour with her new car!

Appreciate any Subs. Thank you.

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27 Replies to “How to Get the Best Purchase Price on Any Car EVERYTIME– No BS!!!!!!!!!!!!”

  1. COngradulations mr. Customer you saved maybe 50 bucks in too much time wasted with phone calls and driving from lot to lot. regardless you pay the same some hold back on your trade some pound it to you in the back end costs some raise the term length. i the end like the casino the customer never wins wether it be a lot purchace or street purchase

  2. All is fair in love war and business. Suck it up and pay up buttercup. I never let the customer leave with numbers on the car. Only bush league salesmen talks numbers on the phone.

  3. . The last customer tried to talk down my numbers. I told him. How would you like if your boss wanted to cut your pay despite your effort and production? He said…Ummmmm.

    If you think you need a lower price its because you can't afford it in the first place, or the sales so called man failed to show you value and benefit of ownership.

    New cars are only 6 percent mark up. Furniture and jewelry is100 percent plus mark up. you so called experts on youtube are as effective helping the customers as a screen door on a submarine.

    any rubes who watch these vids are the same in Vegas who hang out in their hotel room watching the vids on how to win at black jack or TX Holdem poker. Plese, do watch these. WHen you run into me on the lot you will forget everything you saw and or read.


  4. It's none of their business how much you are going to put down, if you are going to trade in, or what you can afford. NEVER bring these up.
    You are there for one thing: A price on a car. Get that price in writing, and get your own financing.

    Also, NEVER EVER EVER pay your tax, tag, title, etc… in your final total. Make that a separate transaction. Why? When you add them to the final price, YOU ARE FINANCING THOSE FOR 60 (or however many) months. Pay those separately!!! Why would you want to pay interest on taxes?!?

  5. even if you are a "price" buyer. make sure to know where you are getting the invoice. I relied a little too much on True Car and a couple months later, I found out KBB set the price a lot lower and True Car even suggested paying lower.

  6. when negotiating to lower the price of brand new car is it good strategy to tell the agent that i am aware of hold back, manufacturers incentives/rebates, and the things that i dont need to pay to lower the price?

  7. As a sales manager, I would of loved to sell your sister or you a car. You're a "payment" shopper. I could discount the car and throw in warranties that have massive profits and still get you too that low payment. Not that I want to disclose all the secrets, but in my 15 years of car sales I've never seen a profit over 3k on any vehicle. The more you try to nickel and dime a dealer, the easier for you to get taken advantage of. Payment should never be discussed. Only the bottom line "on the road" price. Let me share an example. You want $160 a month. So you'll get that payment but the interest rate and term is going to be longer than if you would of not worried about $50. Shorter term = higher payment but much lower interest and more value of the vehicle when it's paid off because it's paid off quicker. I hope that higher interest, longer term and depreciation of value serves you well.

  8. You are so full of crap! How in the heck can you buy a brand new Toyota with premium sound moonroof and navigation for $168 @60 months that only pays back $10,080 which means means after backing out the sales tax, doc fee (if applicable) and registration you bought the car for between $10,000 and $11,000 at 0% So one of 2 things happening, You are either lying or omitting something which in my book amounts to the same thing. You failed to mention what car your sister bought, but I suspect the the MSRP was somewhere north of $20,000 and you have just told the biggest fish yarn off all time!

  9. Unfortunately your plan doesn't work in Hawaii. Here's why, Mazda only 1 dealer, Toyota only 1 dealer, Lexus only 1 dealer, BMW only 1 dealer…etc.

  10. Ive also never had a dealer not match me 50 cents on the dollar on sale price of car with 10 percent down. If they wont do it, they are waiting for next sucker coming down the pipe.

  11. I also always show uo with loan approval code from my credit union, i do the work so i dont have to be baffled with dealer bullshit and i know the price range I can shop in comfortably. Easy stuff folks, 4 hours of prep work will save hours of misery in a dealership.

  12. Know the loan value of your vehicle, use 2 or 3 lenders to find average to be more realistic. Next, find out what the insurance pay off on the vehicle you are wanting, especially used cars, give them all pertinent info to get most accurate payoff. Thats what i do every time and always works in my favor, im not afraid to walk away. I also never go to purchaes with negative equity, always go in with 10-20 percent equity and I also always put 10 percent cash down. Going in unpreoared, with negative equity and no down payment will leave you at dealer with ball in their court.

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